One night while I was moving my Nissan Fairlady Z, the clutch pedal was stuck. It would not rise up after I have stepped on it. I keep stepping on the pedal, hoping it will pop up but it did not. I was lucky because I was done with the move because it would have been a disaster if I was driving and this happened. So, I quickly pop the hood and examined the clutch fluid tank. I found out it was bone dry and then I tried to pull the pedal up with my hand. Good thing it came up and I stepped on the clutch multiple times to see if it would get stuck again. It was fine but without any fluid in the tank, I suspect something is faulty. I text my mechanic friend on what I should do and he told me to rush out to find clutch fluid to pour into the tank and pump the pedal for the fluid to flow. I quickly went to a nearby petrol station and did as I was advised. I pour the fluid to half full tank and pumped the pedal. I left it for a few days before I brought the 350Z to Redsun Motorsport. I had an incident during my drive to Redsun. As I was pulling out after I pumped petrol, my clutch pedal was stuck again. I quickly stop the car, pull the pedal with my hand and pump a few times before I drive off. It was definitely scary and I was worried during the whole drive. I made it after a while and left the 350Z in the workshop for it to be repaired. I also had other work done to my 350Z.
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| Replacing fluid on my own |
I left my 350Z on a Saturday and on the next Monday, I got a phone call that it was ready to be collected with everything done. As usual, Redsun shows how efficient they are when it comes to solving problem. Also, the owner does not like to keep cars in the workshop for too long because there is no space and business is too good. Back to my issue, clutch pedal getting stuck is usually caused by either a leaking fluid tank or hoses, or a faulty clutch pump/assembly. The problem was confirmed to be a faulty clutch assembly by Redsun. They ordered and installed a new original Nissan clutch assembly (code: 30620-CD00A) which cost a lot. The clutch fluid was bled and refill with new clutch fluid. I was told that with the new clutch assembly, the pedal will be lower but it will soon get back to the usual height. My first drive after this repair was a bit of a bittersweet feeling. The usual height for example is 10 cm but now it is like 4 cm. It creates a little discomfort for me, how little space I have but the new clutch assembly made it seems easier to hit the balance point. The 350Z is easier to move away from a still and easier to start with 2nd gear with less shaking. I wonder is this how it should feel when it was brand new.
While my 350Z was at the workshop, the owner advised me to do a regular service since it has been a long time since my last service. As all car owners know, regular services are usually done at the interval of 5,000 km/3 months or 10,000 km/6 months depending on preferences or type engine oil used. However, I only manage to drive my 350Z for only 4,000 km in 10 months. My engine oil should be still in good condition. Nevertheless, since it has been 10 months, I agree to service my car. Redsun did the usual engine oil change with M7 engine oil and changed the oil filter. I also had them look into my Tein suspension set up. I found out that every time I go over a tall bump, the left side undercarriage will hit the bump. There is a theory that since the driver is always present, there is more weight on the right side and to support that, the suspension has to be stiffer and vice versa. I also found the suspension overall is too soft at the corners. I dunno what the owner did to the suspension but I can feel it is more balanced over the bumps. His tuning makes the car better but I have not tested in the corners yet.
Lastly, I had them look into my left headlight. I always thought my left headlight's problem was its blurred surface due to water trapped inside and the projector is still working. Recently, I realized that in actual, the projector was not working. I thought it was the bulb but Redsun said it was the ballast. They had a spare unit and I was happy that it could be solved but when I arrived at the workshop, they were still fixing the headlight. It seems that not only the ballast had malfunctioned but the cable from ballast to the bulb also malfunctioned and there is no spare. After toying with it for another hour or so, they concluded that nothing they can do and the best solution is to look for a used headlight and exchange. I had my hope crushed but they will look for a lamp for me. So, in the meantime I will be using my high beam while driving at night because the high beam still works and even at high beam it is not too bright. I guess that is better than being a cyclops on the road with other user of the road mistaking me for a motorbike.
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| Current Headlamp condition |
Left: Projector works, Right: Projector does not work
Left: Water caused cable to mold, Right: Burnt parts on ballast
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| Both side headlamps removed |
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| Testing and trying to modify cable from another ballast |
